Thursday, February 28, 2013

More fragrance reviews

Whoa, looks like the posts on perfume (reviews and the short feature on "Singapore" fakes) have become the most popular on this blog! No kidding.
 
It's late winter and I've been doing a lot of sniffing, wish-listing and occasional buying. Just for fun, here are more fragrance reviews, which I originally posted on the perfume website / on-line community Fragrantica. Take them with a grain of salt -- each person's skin is different, experiences are unique, and no two persons have exactly the same repertoire when it comes to description.
 
More reviews available on my Fragrantica.com profile page.
 
Kenzo Jungle L'Elephant Kenzo
 
One of the spiciest, most exotic scents I have ever sampled. I smelled plum, cloves (a ton of cloves!) and what I thought was cinnamon (turned out to be cardamom) in the first moments. It opens with a pleasant medicinal-gourmand odor, and in its warmth I am reminded of Chopard Casmir, albeit less vanillic. A friend keeps a mini in her guest bathroom, and one day she let me dab it on: it could be smelled all around the table as we sat down to dinner, a big bully of a side dish that threatened to take over the main course. What a bottle, and what a name! I suppose the reference must be to Indian elephants with their neat ears, their jewel-encrusted saddles and their sinuous movements as they haul teak logs through the jungle. However, it’s the African elephant that comes to my mind – a perfume that rushes straight at you, all ivory tusks and huge flapping ears as it trumpets its presence.
 
***
 
 
Maroussia Slava Zaitsev
 
I admit half of the draw was that this is a perfume by a Russian designer. The bottle is irresistible in the photo and looks even more beautiful in your hand, like a jewel. The scent is of another era, or belongs to a more mature and elegant woman than I am. It's a dress-up scent, for special occasions, and would work better in fall-winter. I can detect the civet note, which actually makes it exciting, if odd. But there are no discernible floral notes, just a dark hovering bouquet, as though ten thousand flowers were massed up in a chapel. Maroussia is a strong and distinctive animalic fragrance, so I recommend spraying into the air and walking into it, rather than direct-spraying on your person or clothing.
 
 
***
 
Sweet Honesty Avon
 
I got this in a little bunny rabbit bottle for my 10th birthday (which always seems to fall around Easter) way back in 1979. It is quite an unusual scent, girlish and feminine, the young Jessica Lange, Olivia Newton-John, something a kid never forgets. Recently I received the contemporary version in a swap with another community member and friend. On first application, the scents were virtually identical, and so I relaxed and thought, A rare one indeed, an undisturbed classic. Immediately, things fell apart, the streak on my forearm turning to pure weightless powder, the ghost of that beautiful, distinct personage from way back. Something is missing from today’s Sweet Honesty… my nose seeks out the sparkly nip of what was probably aldehydes, and maybe a smidge of sandalwood or perhaps oakmoss. (I’m not looking at the reviews or the posted notes as I write this, just going on the scent and memories.) Today’s young uns are missing out on a lot.
 
 
***
 
Lovely Blossom Armand Basi
 
The opening skish is very fruity, like a melon-laced drink you order at a tropical resort. A moment later comes the girl herself – yes, this perfume has an airy pink feminine presence -- sweet like flowers on a breeze and sweet like the layer of sugar at the bottom of that drink. I thought the flowers might be honeysuckle, but the notes tell me otherwise. The scent does have that agreeable nature of syrupy fruit, candied but “lite.” It’s young but ageless, playing not to a demographic, but to a mood. It’s a bottle of shimmery early-summer. Total congruence between scent, bottle design and name.
 
***
 
Ambar Jesus Del Pozo
 
Starts off with blurry, non-astringent citrus that persists for several hours. Beneath that, I can isolate what must be the amber accord (a synthesized, fictional accord, as true amber from prehistoric resin has no smell). It is exotic, slightly woody and resinous, non-vanilla, and there is a similar facet to Sarah Jessica Parker’s “Twilight”, although Twilight and Ambar have a radically different effect. If I spray Ambar (I love that name!) on before bedtime, by morning it has become a pleasant and rather unisex skin-scent, the citrus and amber melded into one.

I still have to road-test it in tropical heat, but in winter in northern Europe, the scent so far has been dry (non-sweet), non-floral, unobtrusive, the perfect backdrop for, say, writing a thesis. The scent goes fast, since I need two or three sprays to really feel its presence. The bottle, full or otherwise, is a true gem, and suggests something far more medieval or mystical than the scent itself.
 
***
 
Fraicheur Vegetale Cedre Bleu Yves Rocher
 
It’s not foresty so much as woody – the clean honest smell of cedar planks, or the inside of a chest or cupboard. A bare cedar, separated from the pure air and verdant foliage of its origins, and already prepared for domestic use. There is a touch of vanilla, or the benzoin that, to many, registers as vanilla. When I wear it, it’s not the color blue that comes to mind, but a warm beige: a masculine beige, as this is a warm, rather masculine cologne. And although I’m a woman that suits me just fine.

This is a cologne I will reach for when I know I’ll be working alone, no people to please or impress, just me and my keyboard and my thoughts. The bottle is sleek yet unprepossessing, and it’s all of 125 ml, meaning I can use it (1 burst from the sprayer is strong enough) without worrying I’ll run out.
 
***

Omnia Bvlgari
 
I love this perfume. It’s my go-to fragrance when I’m teaching. I’m a foreign language instructor and it serves me well to appear friendly, culture-savvy, and a bit androgynous. I see a lot of spices listed in the notes, but to me this is a straight-up woody fragrance, a la Yves Rocher Nature Millenaire (for women). It opens faintly and citrusy and this is probably the reason why so many people express disappointment in it. Don’t let the opening fool you: the scent strengthens, whether you’ve sprayed it on skin or clothing, the sort of elegant, discreet, rather masculine lacquered-armoire vibe that I really love.

If you were hoping primarily for a spicy gourmand, misled by the well-publicized white chocolate note, you’ll be disappointed. The note does appear, albeit elusively as the perfume plays mind games with you: now you catch the white chocolate, now (frowning in perplexity) it’s the same note but it smells balmy… no, woody… no, like benzoin maybe. This is great in winter, misted all over a wool sweater.
 
***

Je Reviens Worth
 
When I first sprayed it on, I had to run to my computer and check the notes for ylang-ylang, and sure enough, there it was. The opener is all ylang-ylang, coupled with a chemical sharpness. (The aldehydes?) The scent of this lovely yellow flower shades off into that of daffodils and something odd and burnt, as though the various blossoms making up the fragrance had been singed at their hearts. I had to apply more than I usually do, as for all its classic undercurrents, the current formulation of Je Reviens does seem rather weak and watered down.

Here is something macabre: when I was six years old, my grandfather died, and as he lay in his casket, us cousins took turns peering past the glass at his gray slack face. Candles dripped and occasionally smoked over our heads. There was a pervasive odor of wilting tropical flowers. To allay our tension and fears, we gathered ylang-ylang blooms fallen from the trees across the street, and stuffed them in amber-colored bottles filled with water and sealed with wax, to make “agua.” I am perturbed that after putting on Je Reviens it is this memory that welters up, after more than 30 years.
 
***

Moringa The Body Shop
 
I fell in love with this fragrance the moment I tested it last year. It’s available in body butter format, so I got that for Christmas. Moringa refers to a genus of tropical plants; the Philippine type is called malunggay. I have smelled the living flowers, which are surprisingly sweet (albeit light), such glamour for such a humble plant.

I don’t know which species the Body Shop’s essences were extracted from, but man, this scent is STRONG. It is lush, creamy and sensual, of the same intensity as tuberose but of different character. No wood, no astringency, no green.

One application of the body butter will defeat any other “nice” scent you may happen to be wearing. I have found it is best on its own, as it won’t make friends with rose, iris, incense, cedar or tea. Would probably get along well with orange blossom, tuberose or gardenia, but I haven’t dared. That would be the equivalent of a lunch table of glammed-up fashion editors in the first, garrulous stages of intoxication.
 

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