Monday, November 12, 2012

Reviews: Must II de Cartier & Ambre de Cabochard

 
Must II de Cartier EDT

I purchased a vintage 50ml bottle of Must II de Cartier EDT on the net. Perhaps the citrus top notes have faded with time, as I don't sense them, and the entire fragrance feels like it could be a slightly paler version of itself. Nonetheless, it’s the gem of my collection right now... the bottle is the kind that when you hold it, you feel a tightening in your chest.


 It is so beautifully hefty -- the perfect shape to fit in your hand -- and the frosted glass is impeccable. It exudes class. The scent is a rich and subdued floral, starting out earthy and rather chocolatey, a note that continues into the dry-down (when sprayed on fabric or paper), but on skin the perfume it blooms; I smell what must be the indolic character of the narcissus note: like burying your nose deep in the flower and being conscious of an odor so intense it’s almost fleshly. Wearing Must II I feel like a poor girl wearing a rich girl's dusty-rose cashmere sweater, one still warm and musky from contact with her skin.

***

Ambre de Cabochard EDT

I bought this blind based on the reviews, despite recommendations in favor of the lighter Jesus del Pozo Ambre. Now I’m so glad I chose Ambre de Cabochard anyway! The initial spritz gives you a dose of spices, vaguely reminiscent of cumin, but don’t let that scare you off: this note vanishes completely, leaving a veil of warmth and sweetness that persists for hours, and yes, eventually transforms into the scent of blueberries, baked blueberries. I would call this an oriental gourmand. Two skishes were in no way overwhelming or formidable, unlike the classic heavy-hitters like Opium, nor indeed AdeC’s butch aunt scent Cabochard. Ambre de Cabochard is a contemporary scent for those who prefer their fall Orientals subdued and pleasant. After 10 hours, the scent (from a single spritz) was still on my shirt.
 
(reviews originally posted in slightly different form on Fragrantica, www.fragrantica.com, under username Lakambini)

 

 

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